How to grow lavender at home on a balcony

Evergreen half-shrub adores the sun, so it only makes sense to grow this plant if the windows of your balcony face the south or southeast side. On shaded areas, the romantic Mediterranean beauty is often sick and extremely rarely blooms.

The most optimal composition of the soil for lavender is a mixture of lime, sand, compost, and permine. For greater snarl and breathability, small amounts of fine gravel can be added to the ground. Simple vegetable garden land for cultivation of lavender is not recommended because when watering the normal garden soil is almost always heavily compacted, resulting in a powerful root system of the plant begins to experience a tangible lack of oxygen.

When selecting the pot, choose containers with a large enough capacity. Ideally, the diameter of the landing container should be at least 30 cm and the volume should be at least two to three liters. Pots too small in size can adversely affect flowering, as the fewer nutrients the roots get, the rarer and more insidious the plant blooms. When choosing the material, prefer unglazed ceramics, as in poorly breathing plastic containers drought-resistant plants very often suffer from overabundance of moisture.

For the cultivation of lavender at home, it is best to use the following varieties:

  • Dwarf blue; $
  • Mansted;
  • Hidcot;
  • Nana Alba
  • ; Sweet;
  • Lavender Lady;
  • Snow men;
  • Sharon Roberts.

Each subspecies differs in both the shade of flowering and some other ornamental parameters. The height of bushes in most of the above species varies between 30 and 45 cm.

Subtleties of planting and reproduction

The propagation of lavender is carried out by seeds, aerial withdrawals and cuttings. Beginner flower growers are best to purchase strong cuttings in specialty stores. More experienced crop growers can try to grow the plant from seeds bought from proven suppliers or harvested on their own.

When growing lavender with seeds first it is necessary to undergo the stratification process, which implies the withstanding of sowing material at a temperature of about +5°C. Without exposure to cold, lavender seeds are unlikely to rise, even if treated with growth stimulant or phytohormones.

Artificial stratification is best done not in packages, but in slightly hydrated soil. Place the seeds in small containers filled with slightly moist sand and cover the tanks on top with sealed polyethylene film. To cool, place the seeds in a fridge or cool cellar for about 1.5-2 months. In order to avoid fungal diseases, seed containers must be periodically opened and ventilated. It is not worth freezing lavender seeds strongly, as in this case they can lose their germination significantly.

Room lavenders grown from seed grow slowly and reluctantly. After the first sprouts of the sprouts, it is necessary to place in a well sunlit location, and the air temperature should not be too high. If bright sunlight is not enough, the sprouts grow very painful and weak. Once the plant reaches a height of at least 5 cm, it can be quietly replanted together with a lump of land into a separate pot for permanent residence.

Throughout the first year, the above-ground part of the room lavender develops extremely slowly. Generally, at this time there is an active formation of a powerful root system. Under the most favorable conditions, the plant blooms only after a year or even one and a half.

How to properly care for lavender?

Lavender, grown on the balcony in the apartment, is very demanding on the conditions of its maintenance. To make the warm-loving Mediterranean beauty feel comfortable, she needs to provide:

  • Abundant natural light. It is best to place the plant on windowsills from the east or partially south side of the house. In its natural habitat, lavender tolerates heat well, but in the conditions of an urban apartment, a hot midday heat for a gentle plant can prove as ruinous as too strong shading.
  • Optimal temperature regime. Despite its southern origin, lavender grown in a balcony apartment is extremely negative for overly elevated temperatures. The most optimal temperature indicators in the active growth phase are from 18 to 20 °C. In heat the plant is best to take to fresh air or to ventilate the room in which it is located. During the autumn-winter period, when the plant is dormant, the indoor air temperature can be gradually lowered to +5°C.
  • Moderate systematic watering. Young sprouts are best watered daily, but more adult bushes – only as the ground dries. During the cool period, the adult plant needs watering no more than 1-2 times a month.
  • Proper and regular fertilizer. Lavender doesn’t have to be fed too often. Subject to annual transplanting, the number of feed may be minimal. However, if the plant suddenly slowed its growth, it is recommended to introduce universal mineral complexes for indoor plants in the active growth phase every two weeks. In early spring, lavender can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers, and during flowering and butonization, various potassium-dominated potassium-phosphorus mixtures have been well established.

Room lavender is best replanted annually before the start of the growing season. This procedure allows to greatly rejuvenate the bush and increase its growth rate. Main pruning is usually done during the autumn period. During pruning, remember that it is strictly forbidden to cut the frosted parts. Stems and shoots can only be cut off a couple of centimeters above the start of the growth zone. Sanitary cleaning of withered twigs and drying shoots can be safely done at any time of the year.

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