You will need
- – electrolobed;
- – rubber hammer;
- – ruler;
- – pencil;
- – sealant.
Prepare the base for laminate. The floor should be flat, dry and clean. A surface difference of 3 mm per meter is allowed. Otherwise, the laminate will stagger, the lock joints will wear out quickly, the joints will be unsealed and visually uneven. It is best to lay on a new screed, because under laminate for protection from moisture and steam, as well as for noise insulation additionally need different substrates.
Stow the first row, leaving a deformation gap between the panels and the wall or the door jambs. This compensation gap of 8 mm or more can be sustained throughout the perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. Since the panels connect tightly at the joints, this gap will allow the entire coating to “float” when the environment in the room changes.
Immediately calculate the position of the last row so that at the end of the laying its width is not less than 6-7 cm, and the joints on the extreme rows are not looked shifted, unsymmetrical. Measure the distance to the opposite wall and calculate the width of the closing series. If necessary, cut the front row.
Assemble the laminate panels on a sealant – a special gel that protects the joints from penetration of moisture inside the flooring. Apply the sealant to the comb of the joint of one panel and secure the next one on it. The gel fills the joint space, securely sealing it. Gently remove excess gel from the laminate surface. In this scheme, lay the panel behind the panel.
Close with decorative elements the compensatory gaps, such as the skirting of laminate and wall. At the same time, attach the skirting to the wall, not to the floor. If the interior has laminate transitions to tile or other coating, close the joints with special sills.